Trendsetting design in menswear can sometimes prove a challenge. After all, the spectrum of clothing which men sport is significantly limited in comparison to what one would find in a woman’s closet. But these designers have found ways to not only push the boundaries in menswear, but also redefine what the traditional staples are – how they should be made, and what they should feel like. The result is high quality, easy-to-wear apparel that allows the individual to stand out against a crowd, and not because he’s wearing a kilt. Unless you’re into that.
What is consistent across these designers’ labels is that there is plenty of innovation and inspiring design, and as these designers progress, we look forward to seeing where their inspiration takes them. This not only applies to the garments they are bringing to market, but additionally to their shows, look books and digital presences. We don’t need to admire them from afar – Elliott + Co, Public School, Hood by Air, Todd Snyder and The Hill-Side are all proprietors of easy to navigate, e-commerce sites. Gone are the days of designers being inaccessible – all you have to do is click.
Movers and Shakers: 5 Trendsetting New Designers
Movers Shakers - Style
John Elliott
John Elliott + Co was established in 2012 in the City of Angels. John Elliott, the designer behind the label, launched the line with childhood dreams in mind, stating that, “starting an apparel company was never if , it was when”. Considering the oversaturated market place of cottons, John Elliot has without a doubt proved his naysayers wrong, and yes you can be innovative with sweatpants and tees. The difference in his line that the fit is on point, and the details are subtle but noticeable. Well placed zippers, fabric insets and ties, the entire line is essentially interchangeable. It’s a grown up, laid back cool that only naturally comes out of Los Angeles.
(Photo by Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images)
Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne
Public School , fittingly, had a much more public introduction into the world of fashion. Coming out of NYC design schools, the founders Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, both raised in New York City, were awarded very esteemed honors from very esteemed organizations early in their careers. It served as a compliment, and label boost, when the brand was selected to be a part of a business dev program with CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America) in 2010. Not to mention, the only menswear line chosen.
Public School continues to evolve. The brand is now exclusively designed and made in New York City, and they’ve not only aced menswear, they’re giving the girls the good as well. What you will find checking out the line is that the team at Public School are masters of fabric. What does that mean? Not too often do you see a designer that can take something that looks like it belongs on a track jacket (say coated polyester), but perfectly sew into a cotton button down shirt . It’s the unexpected that Public School has mastered, but in a very nonchalant type of way.
(Photo by Jeff Vespa/WireImage)
Shayne Oliver
While some designers, like Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne of Public School flourish in the college environment, others take a different route. Take for example Shayne Oliver, of cult fashion line Hood by Air . The classroom didn’t resonate with Oliver, and so he passed on it (technically dropping out of both N.Y.U. and F.I.T.). But that didn’t mean the end of his career. Oliver has designed custom clothing for some of the biggest celebrities in the world (heard of a guy named Kanye?), which ultimately lead to the creation of his brand, available to the (aesthetically focused) masses.
Hood by Air is a diverse line. Dress shirts have unexpected details but are demure in appearance against some of the more in your face designs. And we literally mean face . Denim is emblazoned with the tag “HBA” on the knees, and the shoes look like they belong on Captain EO. The leather goods, including jackets, bags and pouches, have incredibly clean lines, blindingly shiny silver (bit of an exaggeration but not by much) and super understated logos.
(Photo by Jesse Dittmar for The Washington Post.)
Todd Snyder
Born in Iowa, but destined for the big city, Todd Snyder looks more like a banker than an acclaimed menswear designer. But appearances are not always what they seem. Snyder’s line, Todd Snyder , post launch was snagged up by some of the biggest retailers in NYC (see Bergdorf Goodman, Neimen Marcus ), and shortly after by other heavy hitters.
What does it take to achieve such wide scale success so quickly? When your name literally translates to “one who makes outer garments” in dutch (like Snyder’s), maybe you are inspired from an early age. Next came dedication to education, then going to work for globally recognized brands like Polo Ralph Lauren, the Gap and J.Crew, until later going out on your own. To the tune of fans awaiting your arrival.
Todd Snyder’s line is expansive. The focus is on great American suiting. What you also get is casual weekend-wear, unique leather goods and footwear that might make you want to leave the sneakers at home. But if you’d rather walk in true comfort, Snyder has a collab with PF Flyers .
(Photo by Matthew Eisman/WireImage)
Emil and Sandy Corsillo
What happens when streetwear meets workwear meets the colorful aisle at the fabric store? The Hill-Side happens. Founded in 2009 in Brooklyn by brothers Emil and Sandy Corsillo, the company started off small – primarily with bow ties and pocket squares. But what ensued after was a full blown attack on your closet. The Hill-Side has grown to include tailored jackets, trendy ties, unique sneaks, and a wide line of accessories.
When Emil and Sandy began to realize their reach and popularity, they did the logical next step – open a brick and mortar store. Wait, well we don’t know about ‘logical’, as opening up shop in this economy is definitely a gamble – but this one turned out successful. Now you can get their goods online. But with a great design eye you also have an eye for others’ designs – so the website doesn't just feature The Hill-Side, but tons of under the radar brands you won’t find elsewhere.
(Photo courtesy of The Edition, AU)